Chefs sometimes try too hard with these little critters. The trick, however, is to let the flavor of the oysters course through everything else-the crust, the dipping sauce, even through the beer you wash it down with. Hence the genius of the fried oysters at this massive Las Colinas shed. The shell releases a crispy-sweet background and the sauce…oh, the sauce: just a dollop on each, exploding for a moment in bright tomato, yanked to earth by root vegetables, scored by pepper-and then it all subsides, leaving you with the taste of shellfish. Nice.