As a native Texan, I’ve about had it with stereotypes. The giant belt buckles and cowboy hats. The twangy accent that turns every word into a three- or four-syllable ordeal. The predilection for rhinestone bling and big hair. OK, so that last one might be mostly true, but it still raises my hackles when a big, brash joint like Cadillac Ranch moseys onto the scene and lays it on thicker than the haunches of a Dallas Cowboys lineman.

The Texas Kobe flat-iron steak comes from an even closer neighbor. Briggs Ranch, just about 50 miles down Interstate 45 in Rice, is the source of this prized beef. Tender and well-marbled, the slab of meat was robust with a pronounced minerality and buttery texture that made this now-trendy cut worth its $34.95 price tag. A side of potatoes and fat stalks of asparagus added value to the plate.

There were no split opinions on a starter of onion rings. The giant bangles came piled high atop an iron stake, the wide, sweet vegetable slices sheathed with a perfectly seasoned crust that matched well with dipping sides of smoky chipotle ketchup and creamy black pepper-buttermilk ranch.

Skip to content